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8 comments on “
  1. Aurora says:

    Pretty nifty! :)

  2. Juan Ramos says:

    I tried this tonight and to be honest it has to be the best drill i have ever done. For me im an average player and always had problems with ball control. and as simple as this looked to me in my head actually putting your cue down and actually making the shots you are looking for is difficult, but over all amazing! hope there are more drills or tips i can use

    • mkglass says:

      I’m glad it was able to help you. I will definitely be posting more tips and drills, so come back often! If you like my facebook page (, you’ll see every new tip I post.

  3. Shogun says:

    The angle the CB takes after contact with the OB is 45 degrees since it travels on the tangent line. HItting the cushion at 45 degrees will make the ball travel through the center of the table for nice position…

    • mkglass says:

      True, but the angle I am referring to is the cut angle relative to the object ball path.

  4. Jon says:

    great advice. those kids are tough, and they really look like they give themselves enough grief when they miss, im sure they dont need to hear it from anyone else

  5. Michael says:

    I use the second ball break pretty much exclusively when playing 8 ball, and as such I’m gonna have to disagree with the instructions you have given here. Placing the cue ball that far from the rail not only limits the power you can transfer to the rack, but also highly increases the chance of scratching or popping the cue ball off the table.

    Instead, placing the cue ball 1 to 2 inches from the rail, shooting with slight inside english will give you much more surface area to hit the second ball, reducing the likelyhood of scratching. The only time I ever scratch this break or pop the ball off the table is when my break is too loose. I make a ton of 8′s on the break, scratching maybe 1 to 2 percent of the time. I dry break this way perhaps 5 percent.

    With a little practice, this is a solid break that wins games and matches again and again. It is important to make sure you don’t give too much bottom inside, as it has a tendency to drive the cue ball into the felt, making the cue ball airborne as it strikes the rack (this is why it flies from the table).

    Just my two cents.

    In case you’re wondering, I’m an A, sometimes AA, player. Not great, but I hold my own.

    • mkglass says:

      Thank you for your feedback, Michael.

      I will agree with you on one point: the second-ball 8-ball break is definitely prone to a higher percentage of scratching in the corner pocket, or off the table. However, placing the cue 1 to 2 inches away is not the answer for most players. My article attempts to address all levels of player, including the lower-handicapped APA players who do not have power breaks. 4-6 inches is less than half a diamond from the rail.

      For those players especially, placing the cue ball 1-2 inches away from the rail forces you to either cue too high (in an attempt to keep the cue level), or elevate the butt of the cue (in an attempt to apply a middle-to-low stroke). For many players, this can result in a miscue (in the former case), or jumping the ball off the table (in the latter).

      I stand by my instructions. I use this break most of the time when playing a game where making the 8-ball on the break results in a win (BCA rules do not allow a win by snapping the 8). I also use it sometimes when standard breaks don’t result in making a ball, and I need to try something different.

      One inch is less than half the width of a standard ball… that is just too close to the rail to be able to break with the power and control you need. I place the ball just under two ball widths away. That is what works for me, and it’s what works for my students. I always preach control over speed. Control the cue ball, and when you get comfortable with your break, increase your speed.

      Of course, I play and teach on 9-foot tables. That makes a little bit of a difference, if you’re playing on a 7-footer. But truth be told, I can make a very successful second-ball break even a full diamond from the rail. The goal of this break is to send the cue-ball back into the stack. If you hit the second ball too fully, and don’t hit with the proper English and draw, the cue ball will not have the proper speed and trajectory to accomplish its mission — to rebound back into the stack and get the 8-ball moving.

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